MAKING THE CUT
CBD Provisions’ new dry-aged steak menu
Texans take their steak seriously. Competition is fierce and the bar is set high—so even entering the arena isn’t something to take lightly. But CBD Provisions has done its homework, recently adding an extensive list of in-house, dry-aged steaks to the menu.
The team started by sourcing the finest Black Angus on the market from 44 Farms, a family-run cattle ranch in Cameron, TX, that’s been in operation for more than a century. Beautifully marbled Wagyu cuts make their way from A Bar N Ranch in Celina, TX. All are broken down and prepared at the restaurants’ butcher shop below Commissary, downtown’s offsite-kitchen-turned-grab-and-go-market.
“Commissary’s opening allowed us to expand our offerings and have space to dry-age more cuts” says Junior Borges, executive chef of The Joule. Every step takes place on-site, beginning with the quartering of the cattle into parts. In-house butchers carve out premium cuts, saving others for ground beef, sausages, and special dishes like roasted bone marrow. (They put a lot of thought into using as much of the animal as possible; they’re fanatics in that way.) After being cut into manageable sizes, large steaks head into a walk-in that’s cool, dry, and hovering at a 75-percent humidity—perfect conditions for dry-aging.
The dry-aging process takes time—30 to 45 days minimum—and sounds a bit to novices like a science project. But with the right conditions and proper enzymes, the cuts become more tender and flavorful by the day. Once they’ve hit the mark, the cuts are butchered into options for all: bavette, rib eye, porter house, New York strip, and beyond. “The quality of steaks we’re sourcing is incredible,” says Borges. “It’s something we’ve already been doing, but this is a major expansion. So of course, tweaking a few other things on the menu came naturally.”
Those tweaks he’s referring to? Family-style steakhouse sides with nods to modern Texan cuisine: creamed spinach, grilled broccoli, and potatoes in every form you could hope for (mashed, fried, tatered, and more). After all, some of the best bites in the South come piled high and passed around the table. —Michelle Padgett