WHEN IN ROME…
Eat your pizza like the Italians do
When Commissary’s Director of Culinary Operations, Michael Sindoni, returned from a research trip in Italy, he brought back a few souvenirs—and a new project for Commisary’s bakers. While in Rome, he fell in love with the Roman-style pizza al talgio (“by the cut”), which has been making its way stateside in a major way.
What’s the difference between it and its Amerincan counterparts, you ask? For starters, it’s rectangular. The dough rises slowly (fermented over the course of three days at a chilly 72 degrees) and then is baked before the sauce and toppings are added. This yields a crust with a firm, crispy base and a light, airy top—perfect street food you can eat one-handed with a wine glass in the other.
Traditionally, toppings are kept simple and fresh. Commissary baker Ruben Toraño and his team have been experimenting with seasonal toppings and house-cured meats while hosting surprise pop-up pizza nights. Swing by, pick out your slice from the case, and enjoy it at room temperature or warmed. Chef Toraño’s personal favorite: the newest one with house-made ricotta and olive tapenade.